When does my XR650L decompression clatter when hot?
My XR650L is getting some clatter from time to time on decel when the bike is hot. Let off the gas at high rpm’s and it will do it for a few seconds until the rpms come down lower. It’s not just valve lash clatter either. Sometimes it will also do it on initial startup and only last a second or so.
Is the XR650L a street legal bike?
Both bikes have proven very capable, and my XRL is now transitioning into my mile-munching long-range dual-sport bike, with the XRR being a barely-street-legal dirt monster suitable for a few minutes of the road at a time. I may end up trading my XRL for a DR650 based on how well (or poorly, as it were) it performs in its new role.
What’s the problem with The XR650L off road car?
The stock ignition curve is overly conservative, but an Ignitech programmable CDI is virtually a drop-in fix. The stock suspension is soft but that’s merely a matter of springs. The gap between 1st & 2nd gear is large and irritating off-road, but the transmission is robust. The 1-2 gap is easily fixed by swapping 2nd gear for one from an NX650.
Which is better The XR650L or the KLR?
The KLR is a wallowing pig by comparison, and the DR (I assume you meant DR650, NOT DL650 (which is the V-Strom)) is a bit behind offroad, being both heavier and having worse suspension and ground clearance. However, the big Exxer runs HOT and isn’t as good of a mile-muncher (stock) as the DR or KLR, with the KLR being the king on the slab.
Both bikes have proven very capable, and my XRL is now transitioning into my mile-munching long-range dual-sport bike, with the XRR being a barely-street-legal dirt monster suitable for a few minutes of the road at a time. I may end up trading my XRL for a DR650 based on how well (or poorly, as it were) it performs in its new role.
The stock ignition curve is overly conservative, but an Ignitech programmable CDI is virtually a drop-in fix. The stock suspension is soft but that’s merely a matter of springs. The gap between 1st & 2nd gear is large and irritating off-road, but the transmission is robust. The 1-2 gap is easily fixed by swapping 2nd gear for one from an NX650.
The KLR is a wallowing pig by comparison, and the DR (I assume you meant DR650, NOT DL650 (which is the V-Strom)) is a bit behind offroad, being both heavier and having worse suspension and ground clearance. However, the big Exxer runs HOT and isn’t as good of a mile-muncher (stock) as the DR or KLR, with the KLR being the king on the slab.
Is the XR650L a good mile Muncher?
However, the big Exxer runs HOT and isn’t as good of a mile-muncher (stock) as the DR or KLR, with the KLR being the king on the slab. I bought an XR650L and wanted more offroading prowess, but as a giant dude with a love for torque, I didn’t go far- I bought its kick-start forebear, the XR600R, and built the hell out of it.
What’s the best way to do a valve job?
The best way would be by, pressure testing. Inspect valves, seats, springs, guides, and other valve train components, for wear and damage. At this point the shop should be able to come up with, a firm quote for the complete job. Replace any parts deemed not repairable.
How is a valve job done on a cast iron cylinder?
So look for a shop or service facility that does quality work. A valve job typically begins by disassembling, cleaning and inspecting the cylinder head. Cast iron heads are “Magnafluxed” to check for hairline cracks. This involves applying a strong magnetic field to the head and sprinkling iron powder on it.
Can a cast iron valve head be replaced?
Most install new guides, guide liners or bore out the old guides to accept new valves with oversized stems. Aluminum heads have cast iron or bronze guides that can be replaced but most cast iron heads do not. If the valves are to be reused, they will be inspected, checked for straightness then refaced.