Is the rear subframe of a Honda Pilot rusted?
The vehicle was one owner with all dealership maintenance (timing belt and water pump just done for second time) and overall in really good shape minus one bad area of rust where the unibody and rear subframe bolt together. I would say about 95% of the metal was rusted away and i honestly don’t know how it hadn’t yet separated.
Is the Honda Pilot EX-L Navi rusted?
Hi all. I recently purchased a 2003 Honda Pilot EX-L Navi with 208000 miles a few weeks ago. The vehicle was one owner with all dealership maintenance (timing belt and water pump just done for second time) and overall in really good shape minus one bad area of rust where the unibody and rear subframe bolt together.
How to repair rusted crossmember on Honda Pilot?
This repair uses a 1/4x5x5 square steel plate washer above the floor pan, and a U-bracket slipped over the rusted crossmember from below. The bracket is fastened to the floor pan from above with heavy self-tapping hex screws, and the whole assembly is thru-bolted to the subframe with a 8″ long Grade 5 bolt and nut.
Can you replace the unibody crossmember on a Honda Pilot?
Replacing the unibody crossmember sounds cost-ineffective, as interior would have to be stripped to cut the original out and weld the new one in. Since there will be labor cost for dropping the subframe, I’m thinking that repairing both sides at same time makes sense.
The vehicle was one owner with all dealership maintenance (timing belt and water pump just done for second time) and overall in really good shape minus one bad area of rust where the unibody and rear subframe bolt together. I would say about 95% of the metal was rusted away and i honestly don’t know how it hadn’t yet separated.
Hi all. I recently purchased a 2003 Honda Pilot EX-L Navi with 208000 miles a few weeks ago. The vehicle was one owner with all dealership maintenance (timing belt and water pump just done for second time) and overall in really good shape minus one bad area of rust where the unibody and rear subframe bolt together.
This repair uses a 1/4x5x5 square steel plate washer above the floor pan, and a U-bracket slipped over the rusted crossmember from below. The bracket is fastened to the floor pan from above with heavy self-tapping hex screws, and the whole assembly is thru-bolted to the subframe with a 8″ long Grade 5 bolt and nut.
Replacing the unibody crossmember sounds cost-ineffective, as interior would have to be stripped to cut the original out and weld the new one in. Since there will be labor cost for dropping the subframe, I’m thinking that repairing both sides at same time makes sense.