Can you build stringers out of 2×10?
Pressure-treated or cedar 2×10 or 2×12 can be used depending on the depth of the cut-outs you’ll be using. By code you will need a minimum of 3-1/2″ of material left on the stringer after the cut-outs and that area should also be free of large knots which would weaken the stringer.
What is a housed stringer?
A staircase string whose upper edge is straight and parallel to its lower edge; the tread and riser ends are housed in the face of the string and are concealed.
How do you set up a stair stringer?
Align the rise and run measurements on the square with the edge of the stringer. This will establish the starting point for the stringer. Trace out the Unit Rise and Unit Run as shown by the measurements on the square. Extend the horizontal line across the 2×12. Finish off by extending the vertical line down to the edge of the board.
Do you need tread lines for stair stringers?
Although you can also mark the rise lines, they’re unnecessary. You only need the tread lines for mounting the stair angles. Cut the extended riser line at the top end of the stringer. Then cut the bottom of the stringer to conform to the method you’ll use to attach stringers to the landing pad.
Why do I use tapered mortises in my stair stringers?
Andy Engel, former executive editor of Fine Homebuilding and author of Building Finish Stairs , replies: As a stairbuilder, I routed tapered mortises in my stair stringers for several reasons. Not owning a thickness planer, I didn’t mill my own treads and risers, but rather bought the stock as needed.
What’s the quotient on a stair stringer?
The quotient is the number of rises you will trace out on the 2×12. Get a carpenters framing square and if you have little buttons that clamp or screw onto the square even better. Align the rise and run measurements on the square with the edge of the stringer.