What to do if your EIS does not work?
1. Case: Remote door lock works, you insert key but cannot turn -> Check ESL, if ESL does not unlock, you can never turn the key. 2. Case: Remote door lock doesn´t work, you insert the key, esl unlocks, but you cannot turn -> EIS or key damaged.
What should I do if my Mercedes EIS is not working?
Always first step is to read diagnostic trouble codes with DAS. If you work on a petrol car, always take a look to the ecu coding string and write it to a piece of paper. On diesel cars no problem. Before remove EIS, always remove the ESL.
Can a bad EIS-EZs module be repaired?
Mercedes dealers don’t repairer a bad EIS-EZS module. They will recommend that the module be replaced. That’s not necessarily the only solution, see alternatives below. These symptoms can very well be caused by a defective key. If you have a spare key try to see if you are experiencing the same symptoms with the other key.
What is the current on a Mercedes EIS?
When a key is inserted and the coil is switched on the current goes to ~130mA. There is a microswitch that is pressed by the barrel when the key is inserted. If the current doesnt change after key insertion it is either the switch or MCU1 problem. If the key is not recognized (not from this car) the current will drop to 30mA.
1. Case: Remote door lock works, you insert key but cannot turn -> Check ESL, if ESL does not unlock, you can never turn the key. 2. Case: Remote door lock doesn´t work, you insert the key, esl unlocks, but you cannot turn -> EIS or key damaged.
Why did my Mercedes EIS ignition switch fail?
Mercedes-Benz ignition switch (often referred as immobilizer module) can become faulty and in some cases due to user error. For example, some common reasons why the ignition module failed are: Connecting jump starting cables while key is in the ignition. During any of the above scenarios, the EIS-EZS may lose its memory.
Mercedes dealers don’t repairer a bad EIS-EZS module. They will recommend that the module be replaced. That’s not necessarily the only solution, see alternatives below. These symptoms can very well be caused by a defective key. If you have a spare key try to see if you are experiencing the same symptoms with the other key.
When a key is inserted and the coil is switched on the current goes to ~130mA. There is a microswitch that is pressed by the barrel when the key is inserted. If the current doesnt change after key insertion it is either the switch or MCU1 problem. If the key is not recognized (not from this car) the current will drop to 30mA.